Limon Café, Gümüşlük, Turkey

Have you ever watched the sun set into the sea as you munch with relish on deliciously prepared smoked aubergines, or stuffed zucchini flowers gently soaked in olive oil, or bite-sized beef dumplings and garlic yoghurt? I certainly hadn’t before having dinner at Limon Café!

Nestled among the higher reaches of a winding mountain road in Gümüşlük, a small seaside village in Turkey, Limon Café is the most unapologetically picturesque of all the culinary establishments I’ve ever had the pleasure of visiting. It has only outdoors seating, with gorgeous, open views of the sea and sunset, and is merrily populated with handpicked, whimsical furniture, cutlery, flowerpots, electric socket covers…

One of the most interesting things about dining at Limon is that after the sun disappears into the horizon and the sky and sea become dark, the place is transformed. It changes from a space dotted with amiable chairs and spry sunflowers, girded by soothing vistas — into something surreal, suddenly unfamiliar. You look around and see everyone sitting on dainty furniture, tucking into beautiful foods and wines, at the edge of a velvet black maw, an impenetrable darkness that perhaps looks something like what sailors in olden times imagined the edge of the world to be. (Did I mention that Gümüşlük is where the ancient Greek city of Myndos once thrived?)